So you want to buy a digital SLR

I've had friends, family and co-workers ask me about what cameras they should buy. While I don't know everything there is to know, I've been using film and digital SLR (single lens reflex) cameras long enough to at least feel confident in my opinions about cameras. Google is also my friend and yours when it comes to nitty-gritty queries. Here we go!

1. First, let's determine if you really want a digital SLR. I'm assuming you already love taking photos, maybe with a digital point-and-shoot or film camera (or – gasp – cell phone).

• What don't you like about the photos you are taking? A new camera alone won't solve the issues, so plan to also read, study and practice to improve your skills along with any new equipment you buy. In fact, getting the most out of a DSLR camera requires that you know about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, etc. You might learn first before taking the plunge.
• Are you planning to buy a DSLR and then stick with one lens? One of the main draws to SLRs is the ability to change lenses for different situations and effects. If you're planning to use only one, maybe you should stick with the point-and-shoot.
• Are you willing to trade convenience of your small camera for lugging more gear around? Nobody says you have to get rid of your point-and-shoot. If you can, I recommend having one when you are sight-seeing or want to travel light.

2. Let's find the right camera for you.

• Consider what you'll be photographing most and in what conditions. Fast-moving objects? In daylight or darkness? Portraits of your kids? For everything but extreme conditions, an entry-level camera like the Canon Digital Rebels (XS, XSi, T1i) and Nikon D40, D50 or D5000 will provide excellent results. It's when pushed when there's not much light, too much light, inclement weather, extreme temperatures, etc., that they begin to show why they are the consumer models. Taken care of, most people won't have any issues at all. Check out offerings from Pentax, Olympus and Sony as well, many of which have camera bodies built to withstand elements that go just beyond the norm. Unless you understand what the features of each do, they aren't that important for simply taking still photos. Some now offer HD video capture (T1i and D5000), which is a nice option.
• What's your budget? Many new DSLRs can be had for less than $1,000. Some even come with a "kit" lens that usually isn't all that great but will get you started.
• Go to a reputable camera store near you and touch, feel and test out models that interest you. How does it feel in your hand? Do you enjoy holding it? Will you use it?
• Once you've settled on a model, consider again what you will be shooting most of the time. That will help you consider what lenses would suit you best. Seasoned amateur and pro photographers alike realize that lens quality makes the most difference in your photos vs. the camera. In fact, just about all my DSLRs were purchased from fellow photographers so I could dedicate more to lenses and accessories. I could write a book about lenses, but Google is your friend!
• Don't forget things like batteries, memory cards, accessory flash units and a decent camera bag to store and carry along your new photo gear.

3. The difference between amateur and professional camera models. There are too many differences to list all of them, but I'll highlight the most important ones I've come to love.

• High-ISO performance. ISO is a number rating that loosely translates to the sensitivity of film. For example, in bright sunlight you would have wanted to buy ISO 100 or ISO 200 film. When you need to compensate for less light, or bring up detail in shadows, you'd want to use ISO 400 or ISO 800 for even darker situations. The beauty of digital is that you can change these numbers to suit changing conditions without changing any film. In some modes, various cameras will set the ISO for you, but I recommend learning what it means and not leaving it up to the camera. When an image is underexposed (not enough light in the image), digital sensors create a phenomenon called "noise," unpleasant dots and weird pixels that can ruin an image. Professional cameras often feature better processors to reduce or eliminate noise, and can produce cleaner images at higher ISOs than many entry-level cameras.
• Shutter speed. Many consumer models go as low as 1/20th of a second and up to 1/4000th of a second. Pro models usually have a "bulb" mode where you can leave the shutter open for as long as you want, and the best DSLRs will go up to 1/8000th of a second. These can help a photographer deal with extreme light, fast motion or very little light. It also can give more creative control, although the consumer ranges are usually enough.
• Build quality. Some entry DSLRs are built to withstand moisture and extreme temps (Pentax comes to mind), but most are not. Professional bodies are not waterproof, but usually heavily dust- and weather-sealed. "Prosumer" cameras usually have some light sealing that is better than nothing.
• Size. For some reason, professional cameras are big and heavy. Other than the "wow that's a big camera" factor, there's no benefit to having to tote around such ginormous cameras. In addition to the outside, pro cameras often have larger digital sensors for capturing images. What does this mean? More pixels and more pixel-density to capture finer detail and allow larger prints to be made. Don't confuse more megapixels with quality, though. The sensor ratings are important, but it seems more like a horse race among camera companies than a meaningful improvement in images in many cases.

4. Conclusion.

• Hopefully I've whetted your appetite for information. This isn't a comprehensive post by any means. Just something to get you thinking before taking the plunge. If you have the time, I suggest taking a photography course to demystify the photo-making process.

As always, if you have a specific question, I'll be happy to share what I know and find out if it's something new to me.